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Hello Everyone!
My name is Peter, I am the Sunderland Rangers Storyteller and I am going to tell you a story. It is the tale of a walk along a riverbank which took place on Sunday 21st September 2008. ‘8 Bridges Over The Wear’.
We took the bus from Roker Blockyard and proceeded to Fatfield; the walk starting from the Biddick Inn (closed).
The first bridges we looked at were Fatfield Bridge (correctly called Penshaw) and Chartershaugh Bridge. Fatfield Bridge was built in 1889 replacing/bypassing earlier crossings.
Chartershaugh Bridge, which carries the Washington Highway, was built in 1975 replacing/bypassing Fatfield bridge. This means that the Washington Highway bypasses the bypass! (A bypass bypass takes some thinking about!)
A bit further up river, we discussed NEDS (North East Direct Supply) fizzy pop factory and visited the site of the Bird in the Bush Inn, from where the Earl of Perth operated the ferry to Girdlecake Cottage.
In 1745, the Jacobite Rebellion made him a fugitive. He went on to marry a local lass and ended his days here, leaving his descendants in the area. (If you are local and are a Drummond, you could claim the Earldom of Perth – best of luck!).
Onward, passing the site of the Butney Pit (Butney - a corruption of Botany Bay - the area was so rough that Press Gang, Excise Men, Tax Collectors etc. didn’t dare go there!) to Victoria Bridge, which opened in 1838 for the Durham Junction Railway and was named after Queen Victoria. It carried the main Newcastle to London line until the Team Valley line was opened.
Cox Green next, where we talked about the local shipbuilding; the Alice well, (the only supply of fresh water to the village until the late 1940’s), a local lad told us the well was named after the wife of the bricklayer, who was possibly the builder of it; the footbridge and Frost’s Ferry – another local lad gave us a talk about Jack Frost, the ferryman.
Over the river and onward, passing the Waterfowl Park, to Low Barmston, a hive of industry a few years ago and whose produce was featured in the Great Exhibition at Crystal Palace.
Next, High Wood and Toby Gill, (this gill runs into the Wear river) and then a picnic by the riverside. Whilst we sat, a Heron flew by and Terns were fishing in the river. I saw a seal here once.
A bit further on, I scrambled down onto the riverbed (and into the mud), where I slithered about and managed to locate a huge mooring ring - evidence of shipping many years ago. (I had to be hauled back up to the path!).
At the far end of High Wood, is a battle site. In 1644 Oliver Cromwell’s’ army marched into Sunderland where they were welcomed with open arms. The Royalists followed, taking up position on Bunny Hill. They engaged in battle along the riverbanks around the Pennywell/Hylton area and fought all day. The Royalists were thrashed and retired to Durham then they went on to Marston Moor, where they were finally defeated. A prominent family, the Lilburns of Offerton were friends of Oliver Cromwell and Colonel Robert Lilburn of the Roundhead Army was one of those who signed King Charles’ Death Warrant. They don’t tell you these things at School!
The A19 bridge was next, built 1970 - 1974 after many years of desire and planning. The Romans got there first, damming the river for navigation and transport. The Maling Pottery was started nearby, moving to Newcastle later. Old Mally was a local witch, her exploits and those of others were discussed. They seem to have operated pretty freely as the Witch Hunts supposedly never came to this area. (Try telling that to Jane Atkinson of Washington!).
Through the Saltmarsh of Barons Quay, where Baron Hylton’s Fool is supposed to have told someone that he could ford the river at high tide, to the Queen Alexandra Bridge. Opened in 1909, to carry the North Eastern Railway and a road. The railway closed after only a few years thanks to a decline in the coal trade, and only the road now survives.
Wearmouth Bridge and the neighbouring Railway Bridge were our last bridges. The railway bridge was built in 1875 and the Wearmouth Bridge was erected 1828 – 1829 and opened by the Duke of York, and is the latest in a line of bridges on this site. Roker Blockyard next, then home.
A very good day which all enjoyed and it didn’t rain. My thanks to all who participated.
Peter - the Storyteller.
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